How to Tie Hard-Neck Garlic for Decorative Hanging

Welcome!  This article is all about how to plait (or tie) hard-neck garlic together for decorative hanging.  This keeps the garlic neat and dry so that it can be stored through the winter.

Step 1: Grow garlic.

If you found this post, chances are that you already know how to grow your own garlic. But in case I am making a false assumption, here is a link to a GREAT web page that explains how to grow garlic in northern climates:  Michigan Garlic Farm: How To Grow Garlic.  This is the page that I used to learn how to grow garlic. It is excellent.

I grew a few varieties of garlic in the garden this year including: elephant garlic (actually a form of leek), 'Music', 'Northern Jewel', 'Purple Italian' and 'German Mountain'.  They all grew well.  

Step 2: Harvesting.

Step 2:  Harvest garlic.

It is time to harvest garlic when most of the leaves have turned brown.  In Michigan, this is generally some time in July.  Harvest garlic by gently lifting it out of the ground with a spading fork or shovel.  Place the fork several inches from the base of the plant, dig down as far as you can, and gently lift up.  The garlic should pop up with the soil.  Try not to chop through the garlic with your shovel.  Also, do not pull it out by the stem without digging first, as this could damage the garlic.  It will not store as well if it is damaged.

Step 3: Curing the garlic.

Step 3:  Allow the garlic to cure.

Do NOT clean the garlic with water. Do NOT trim the leaves or the roots off yet. Gently remove the largest clumps of dirt from the cloves, but otherwise allow them to remain "dirty." Hang the garlic together with string in groups of 3-5, in a well ventilated area until the stems dry out completely.  You will know it is finished curing when the stems and leaves have turned 100% brown.  This generally takes anywhere from 2-4 weeks. This step is important because it allows the outer peel around the bulb to dry out and to protect the inner clove. It prevents the clove from rotting.

Step 4

Step 4: Clean up the garlic.

Do NOT clean the garlic with water.  Trim the stems so that about 6 inches (12 cm) of stem remain above the bulb.  Cut the roots short with a scissors, but do not cut into the bulb itself.  Dust off the outer coating of dirt gently with your fingers.  If you wish, you can remove the top-most layer of peel around the bulb, but do not remove all of the peel.  The more of the outer skin you leave on, the more protected the inner cloves will be.

Steps 7 & 8

Step 5: Arrange 6-12 bulbs according to size: largest to smallest.

Step 6: Cut a length of string about 3-4 ft long (1m).

Step 7: Tie a slip knot near the end of the string, and tighten it around the stem of the largest garlic clove. If you don't know how to tie a slip knot, watch this: Slip Knot Video.

Step 8:  Tie a second slip knot about 1 inch (2-3 cm) above the first knot.  Keeping the loop lose, pull it over the end of the stem of the 1st garlic clove.

Step 9: Looping in the 2nd garlic.

Step 9: Tightening string.

Step 9: Place the stem of a 2nd garlic clove (the 2nd largest in size) through the lose loop in the string.  Tighten the slip knot of the 2nd loop, and double knot it to hold it in place.

Steps 10 & 11: Loop around all the stems & tighten.

 Step 10: Make another slip knot about 1 inch (2cm) above the 2nd knot.  Place the loop around the stems of the 2 pieces of garlic in the bunch.

Step 11: Place the stem of the third garlic clove through the loop, next to the stems of the other two connected pieces of garlic.  Tighten the loop and double knot it to hold it in place.

Step 12: Stagger the positions of the garlic cloves in relation to each other.

Step 12: Continue adding garlic cloves in this same way until the are all used up.  Stagger the cloves as you add them so that each newly added clove is on the opposite side of the one previously added to the group. 

Step 12: Continue looping & knotting.

 Step 13:  When you have finished adding all of your garlic bulbs to the bunch, double knot the final knot.  Then, trim the garlic stems so that they are all even at the ends.

Steps 13 & 14: Cut the garlic stems so they are even.  Make a loop to hang the chain from.

Step 14:  Tie a loop at the end of the string from which to hang the garlic chain.





















Step: 15:  Hang the garlic in a cool dry place where you will be able to enjoy looking at it, and will remember to use it for cooking. 


              HAVE FUN AND ENJOY!!  :)

Garden to Table Recipe: Tangy New Potatoes with Fresh Garden Herbs

Parsley, Dill & New Potatoes

Have you ever had new potatoes straight from your garden?  If not, you are missing out!  They are sweet tasting and flavorful. (Especially compared to the grocery store potatoes!)  Here is a simple recipe that makes the most of their flavor, and uses herbs that are in season this time of year.  (It is also great for summer potlucks!):







TANGY NEW POTATOES WITH FRESH GARDEN HERBS

                                              You will need:

1lb new potatoes (or fingerling potatoes from the
store)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
3-4 tablespoons of chive vinegar - to taste (chive flowers + white wine vinegar - see recipe below)
1-2 teaspoons salt - to taste

Directions:

1 day (or more) ahead of time make the chive vinegar:  

• Boil a glass jar or other glass container for about 10 minutes to sterilize it and to warm the glass. This is important to avoid having the glass break in the following steps.
• Cut a handful of chive flowers from the plant and stuff as many as you can into a jar or other glass container.
• Bring enough white wine vinegar to fill your jar to a boil over medium heat.  
• Pour the boiling vinegar over the chives in the jar.
• Cover the jar and allow to sit overnight at room temperature.  Refrigerate to store for 2-3 months.

Cut the new potatoes so that they are all roughly the same size - about 1" diameter.  You may be able to leave some of them whole.

Place the potatoes in a pot and cover with cold water.  Bring the potatoes and water to a boil over medium heat for about 10 minutes, or until the potatoes are easily pierced with a fork.

Drain the potatoes and allow to cool.

Toss the potatoes gently with the dill, parsley, vinegar and salt.

Serve and enjoy at room temperature.

What the ingredients look like growing in the garden:

Chives

Dill

Parsley

And the star of the dish: the potato! :)

Preserving Herbs By Freezing

Greetings cooking & gardening community!

This is just a quick post about how to preserve herbs by freezing them.

In this case, I am preserving fresh cilantro.  Why?  Because cilantro is a cool-weather crop.  By the time my tomatoes ripen in the summer, the cilantro will have bolted and/or died off in the heat.  If I want to make salsa later, I need to preserve the cilantro now!

This is easy to do:

1. Harvest, rinse and drain the herbs thoroughly.

Fresh, over-wintered cilantro from the garden.

2. Roll out a long strip of paper towel.

3. Lay the herbs flat in line with the short end of the paper towel.

4. When you have filled a width of 1-3 inches (2-6cm) of space at the end of the towel with herbs, roll the herbs in the paper towel until they are covered.

5. Then, lay down another line of herbs and roll these in the paper towel again.  Continue until you have rolled all the herbs in the paper towel.

6. Wrap the rolled paper towel in plastic wrap.

7. Wrap the herb/paper towel/plastic roll in aluminum foil.

8.  Label and date the aluminum foil wrap and place in your freezer.

This should last 6months to a year.

"But what about blanching!?" you may ask.  Personally, I don't bother.  The herbs seem to stay fairly green despite being frozen.  Also, I generally use the herbs as a component of a recipe.  I don't recommend using frozen herbs as a garnish.  They will be wilted and won't look good. 

Extra Notes:

• If you want shredded/crushed herbs to use in your recipe: Remove the herbs from the wrap while they are still frozen and then crush them in your hand.  The herbs should shatter fairly easily.
• If you want the herbs to appear whole in your recipe: Allow the roll to thaw before you remove the herbs.  They should maintain their shape and color fairly well.  However, they will not be as crisp as fresh, unfrozen herbs. 

I hope this helps someone out there!  Happy gardening, cooking and preserving! 

Winter Gardening in Michigan Experiment & 38 Vegetables to Grow in a Zone 5 Winter

This winter, I decided to try growing food outdoors in a cold frame for the first time.  I was inspired to do this by the gardening shows, books and you-tube videos that I've been viewing lately. These included: Elliot Coleman, Alberta Urban Garden, Gardener's World, and One Yard Revolution, among others. Based on watching these folks talk about their gardening experiences, I developed the following...

NOT-SO-SCIENTIFIC WINTER GARDENING EXPERIMENT:

HYPOTHESIS:

 If vegetables can be grown in the middle of freakin' Alberta in the middle of the winter, surely I can grow them here in southern Michigan! (Granted, I've never been to Alberta, but I have been to Quebec, and I can safely say that Canadian winters are no joke: they are coooold!  If the plants can deal with that climate, they should be able to deal with this one, right?)


 

METHODS:

Store-bought cold frame

 I set up 2 cold frames. One, I bought on Amazon. The other, I made out of an old window that my neighbor was throwing out set on top of some bags of peat and wood mulch that I plan to use next spring.  I just arranged the bags of mulch etc. in a rectangle, and set the window on top. Anywhere there were gaps, I covered the area with some small garbage bags filled with compost. It looks kind of trashy, but works.

Home-made cold frame

In mid-September, I planted the seeds for the following: spinach, chard, cilantro, lettuce, radishes, arugula, and carrot. I chose these
plants because they are known to be cold tolerant. (See the bottom of this post for a more complete list of cold-tolerant crops.)  I also put some of my rooted cuttings into the cold frame to protect them through the winter.

In November, I set up some PVC pipe hoop houses over the top of the cold frames.

To cover my home made cold frame I hammered some 2 foot long rebar into the ground.  I cut a 1" diameter PVC pipe into lengths of about 5 foot and arched them over the top of the home-made cold frame, securing the ends by inserting the rebar into the center of the PVC pipe.  I braced the two arches with a 3rd piece of stiff PVC pipe at the top of the arc. I secured the pieces together with zip ties. I then covered the hoop tunnel with 6mil plastic sheeting and

clamped it to the PVC pipe with plastic clamps found at the big box store. I anchored the plastic at the bottom with rocks and bricks.

To cover my store-bought cold frame, I cut a 1" diameter PVC pipe into four, 4 foot pieces, and one 5 foot piece. I connected them at the top with a 3-way PVC pipe connector. Unfortunately, one of the 3 holes for the connector contained a segment that was too small for the top piece of PVC pipe, so I connected that again with pieces of zip-tie. I secured the ends to the ground by inserting the rebar into the center of the PVC pipe. I covered this with 6mil plastic and secured it with plastic clamps from the big box store.  I anchored the plastic at the bottom with rocks and bricks.

(See, not so scientific. I didn't keep track of what type of seed, how much I planted, when it germinated or anything really.  My former biology professors would weep with disappointment. ;) ) 

RESULTS:

Several of my vegetables grew and I was able to harvest several winter salads. But, my method needs tweaking.

What Worked:

Spinach, chard, cilantro, lettuce, radishes, and arugula all grew.  The cuttings in their 4-inch pots seem well protected (these included sweet woodruff, rosemary, and gooseberries).  The radishes grew quickly and were harvested before the end of October. The lettuce also grew quickly until October, but then slowed down by December. Even so, I got 2-3 cuttings out of it, including one for Thanksgiving salad. The cilantro and spinach were the BEST. I can never get these two vegetables to grow without bolting in the summer. But in the winter under the cold frame (September - January) they have produced wonderfully and are sweeter tasting than usual! I cut the cilantro about 4 times, and the spinach about 3 times.

What Failed:

There was not quite enough plastic to cover the PVC tunnels.  When it got windy, the plastic would lift up along the bottom of the tunnels, despite the anchoring with rocks and bricks.

Some of the carrots germinated in the home-made cold frame, but did not continue growing past late October.  I think this is for two reasons:

1. I planted them too late. According to the chart in  Elliot Coleman's book, "The Winter Harvest Handbook", I should have started the carrots around early to mid August. Then, theoretically, they would have been ready for harvest around mid to late December.

2. I positioned the home-made cold frame facing East instead of South. I did this for easy access, but it may have decreased the amount of light getting to the carrots.


The arugula grew well in the store-bought cold frame through mid-November, but by mid-December they were frost burned and mushy.  I think this was because they were planted near the edge of the North-end of the cold frame, and thus got hit with frost.  This is somewhat surprising because it has been a rather mild winter for Michigan. We did get a couple of snows, but nothing outrageous. This has caused me to consider what might need tweaking...

DISCUSSION:

I am going to try growing winter carrots again, but next year I will start the seed in August. Hopefully I will have carrots for Christmas 2016.

I will be buying a larger piece of plastic to cover the hoops next year.  I want enough plastic left at the bottom that I can either bury some of it or anchor it more securely with bricks. I don't want the edges kicking up in the wind and releasing the built-up solar heat. 

I am going to use some left-over trex decking boards to build a proper cold frame for the window that I pilfered from the neighbor's trash.  Although the bags of peat insulate well, they look pretty ugly, and I don't plan on buying peat every year. If I have a trex frame I can move it around easily and store it away under the deck in the summer. I will post building instructions for this in the summer after I complete the construction.

 It seems to me that the store bought cold frame needs some insulation despite being double-covered with the plastic tunnel.  (The trex frame may need insulation as well.) This winter has been unusually  mild, with temperatures averaging around 40F - 50F. If we get a true Michigan winter (like the winter of 2013 or 2014), I think that more than just the arugula will suffer.

I am not sure how I will insulate the cold frame next year, but,I have several ideas:

1. I could dig a 1-2 foot deep square, plant the seeds at the bottom of the hole and put the cold frame over that.  My concern with this is that the edges of the hole might crumble and I will end up having to build yet another structure to hold them up.

2. I could fill several milk jugs with water, paint the outside black and line these up along the outer edge of the cold frame to act as heat sinks.  My concern with this that this will take up growing space inside the cold frame. I could line them up between the outside of the cold frame and the plastic hoop structure, but I think this might not hold heat as well.

3. I could pile leaves up between the cold frame and the plastic from the hoop over the top.  My concern with that is it may make a slimy mess on the surface of the cold frame by the time spring gets here.  I could decrease the mess by bagging the leaves in plastic garbage bags, but that is a waste of more plastic.

4. I could get some bubble wrap or styrofoam and line the inside of the cold frame with it. I could re-use that every year.  But would it be thick enough to do the job?

5. I could put some floating row cover over the plants inside the cold frame.  This might help, but I doubt will be enough by itself.  Perhaps if I insulated with styrofoam and applied floating row cover the plants would have enough protection.

If you are reading this and have any better ideas, or ideas that you've tried in the past, please let me know in the comments.  I would appreciate the help!

 I further plan to heat the cold frames next year from below: by building a hot bed.  Hot beds appear to be simple to set up (I have not built one myself yet - another upcoming experiment!) Apparently, you just dig a trench or hole, pack the bottom 12 inches of the hole with fresh horse manure mixed with straw or leaves, and then lay garden soil to a depth of about 5-6inches over the top of that. As the manure decomposes, it will produce a couple degrees of added heat.  I plan to build a hot bed in spring as well in order to assist the watermelon that I want to grow. I will post more about this when I do it.

I will, of course,  post again next winter to let you know what changes I made and how well the crops grew.  For now, I am pretty satisfied with my first attempt.  I got several winter salads and a ton of cilantro out of my little "experiment." I have great hope that I will only improve the process year by year.

BONUS! List of  38 Winter-Hardy Vegetables for Zone 5 Cold Frames:
(i.e. plants that will grow under the protection of an un-heated greenhouse or cold frame in Zone 5 Michigan, according to Eliot Coleman & others.)

If you live outside zone 5, Michigan, please see the chart in  Elliot Coleman's book, "The Winter Harvest Handbook to figure out what you might be able to plant in your zone. 

Arugula - in zone 5, plant between 8/1 and 9/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Beets - in zone 5, plant between 8/1 and 10/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Broccoli - in zone 5, plant between 8/1 and 9/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Brussels sprouts - in zone 5, plant between 8/1 and 9/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Cabbage - in zone 5, plant between 9/1 and 9/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Carrot - in zone 5, plant between 8/1 and 9/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Cauliflower - in zone 5, plant between 8/1 and 9/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Celery - in zone 5, plant between 7/1 and 8/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Celeriac - in zone 5, plant between 7/1 and 8/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Chard/ Swiss Chard - in zone 5, plant between 6/1 and 9/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Chicory - in zone 5, plant between 7/10 and 8/20 to grow in cold frame over winter
Chinese cabbage / Oriental vegetables - in zone 5, start seeds mid summer to grow in cold frame
Chives - in zone 5, plant between 8/1 and 10/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Cilantro - in zone 5, start between 9/1 and 10/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Claytonia - in zone 5, start between 10/1 and 11/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Cress - in zone 5, start between 9/1 and 10/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Dandelion - in zone 5, start between 9/1 and 10/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Endive - in zone 5, start between 8/1 and 9/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Escarole - in zone 5, start between 8/1 and 9/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Kale - in zone 5, start between 8/1 and 9/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Kohlrabi - in zone 5, start between 8/15 and 9/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Leek - in zone 5, start between 8/1 and 8/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Lettuce - in zone 5, start between 8/25 and 10/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Mizuna - in zone 5, start between 8/15 and 11/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Onion bulb -  in zone 5, start between 9/1 and 10/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Onion greens - in zone 5, start between 8/1 and 10/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Parsley - in zone 5, start between 9/1 and 11/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Parsley root - in zone 5, start between 9/1 and 11/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Parsnip - in zone 5, start between 8/1 and 9/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Peas - in zone 5, start between 9/1 and 11/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Potato - in zone 5, start between 7/25 and 8/20 to grow in cold frame over winter
Peppermint - in zone 5, any time before 9/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Radish - in zone 5, start between 9/1 and 11/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Rutabaga - in zone 5, start between 7/15 and 8/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Sage - in zone 5, any time before 9/15 to grow in cold frame over winter
Sorrel -  in zone 5, start between 8/15 and 10/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Spinach - in zone 5, start between 9/15 and 11/1 to grow in cold frame over winter
Turnip - in zone 5, start between 9/1 and 10/15 to grow in cold frame over winter

Note: Theoretically, you can also grow things like tomatoes, basil, peppers, cucumbers & melons year round. However, these would require a larger greenhouse due to their size as well as some coddling and extra protection to keep them warm enough.

Project #3 - The Herb Garden

Herb garden June 2015 - AFTER planting.

Herb garden Spring 2015 - BEFORE planting.

As I have mentioned in previous posts, I just moved in to my house last year (summer 2014).  The house came with several garden beds, as well as some very nice hardscaping.  While some of the beds around the house were already filled to bursting with daylilies, hosta, spiderwort, sundrops, irises and roses, others were virtually empty.

So, I am attempting to plant one major portion of the garden at my home each summer.  This summer the garden that I chose to work on was the area closest to the lake.  I decided to designate this bed as my combination herb garden and pie garden.  (Pie garden = strawberries and rhubarb.)

The garden bed, like all others has advantages and challenges.

Advantages: 

One side of the bed faces the lake, so it gets sun from that direction all day.

The soil is sandy and drains well.

The previous owners already built in a nice hardscaped path and seating area along with a retaining wall.  Because of this, the space is like it's own garden "room".

The pie garden spring 2015 - BEFORE planting.

There is a pump from the lake, so I can hook up
my hose. Otherwise, I can just dunk my watering can in the lake and water with that. 

 Disadvantages:

The bed is on the North side of the property.  It is not very protected in the winter.

The soil is sandy and does not contain a high amount of nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium).

To each side, there are oak trees in my neighbor's garden.  These do shade the beds a bit in the morning and evening, but also keep the sun from mercilessly baking the area.  They are both an advantage and disadvantage.

The chipmunks have made their homes in and under this garden.  They have made holes everywhere and buried several acorns that have developed into oak seedling "weeds".  My dog is no help at all with regard to critter control. She just points at the chipmunks... as if I don't already see!

The pie garden June 2015 - AFTER planting.

  What I Did to Prepare the Area:

  Last fall, I brought in compost from Tuthill Farms. I spread    this over the bed to a depth of about  2 inches. This should help to improve the nutrients in the soil and help hold on to some moisture.

  This spring, I spread corn gluten mean (nitrogen), bone meal (phosphorus), and potash (potassium)  over the area to improve the nutrients in the soil.  These are good, slow-release, organic fertilizers.

  I mulched the area.

  I hooked up a drip hose and zig-zagged it through the garden for ease of watering.  Drip hoses are more efficient at delivering water to the plants than spray irrigation because less is lost to evaporation.  If you are interested in conserving water, but still want to provide for your garden, please consider one of these hoses.  You can find them at any large hardware store (Home Depot, Lowes, Ace etc.). 

I also purchased a live trap and have been capturing the chipmunks one by one.  Once I catch them, I drive them several miles away to empty woodlots and let them go. I may need to continue catching and releasing them for some time.  Each time that I capture one, I see another peeking at me from under a bush or a rock! 

What I Planted (or left planted) in the Herb Garden: 

Sibirian Iris / Iris Siberica (purple-blue flowers) - The former owner planted this, but I like it! I
especially like how the reedy leaves blow in the breeze off of the lake, as well as the seed pods that last through the winter.

German Iris / Iris Germanica (yellow and white, and purple-blue flowers) - The former owner planted this, but I like it as well. Irises remind me of my grandmother.

German Iris

Sedum (type unknown, yellow flowers) - The former owner planted this to fill the cracks in the retaining-wall rocks.  I like it!

Tickseed / Coreopsis (yellow flowers) - The former owner planted this, too. This is a great plant for enticing beneficial insects.

Roses / Rosa (hybrid type unknown, pink flowers)  - The former owner planted this. I sort of like it, but it is not highly useful, and is only doing moderately well where it is located.  They are nibbled on by insects. Last winter, I protected these with rose cones. They did better this year than the year before
 because of the protection. Perhaps they will improve with time and better care.

German Iris & Sedum in the background.

Red Hot Poker / Kniphofia uvaria - The former owner planted this, I like it, but I *might* move it to the sunny front garden at a later time to make room for more herbs.  I haven't decided for sure yet. It is lovely and doing fairly well where it is now.

Apothecary Rose / Rosa gallica (pink flowers) - This is a tough rose that smells good, makes edible flowers, makes large edible hips and was traditionally used as a medicinal plant. It is also the rose for the house of Lancaster during the British War of the Roses - for all you history buffs and Shakespeare fans.

Dwarf Bartlett Pear / Pyrus 'Bartlett' - I am hoping for fruit in the future!  I did plant another pear tree elsewhere in the garden so the two can fertilize each other.

Lemon Balm / Melissa officinalis - The leaves smell like lemon and can be used to make tea, potpourri, or to flavor food.

Angelica / Angelica archangelica - This herb is a biennial.  The leaves taste a bit like licorice.  It can be used to flavor salad, fruit and jam.  It also makes a large umbel shaped flower that beneficial insects enjoy. 

Bee balm with hummingbird moth.

Bee Balm / Monarda didyma - This is another pollinator-friendly tea herb.  The dried flowers taste a bit like earl grey tea.

Sorrel / Rumex acetosa -  This is a perennial plant with sour edible leaves.  It can be used as a salad green.  The leaves are also food for larval butterflies and moths.

Chives & Garlic Chives / Allium schoenoprasum & Allium tuberosum - The narrow leaves and purple or white flowers of this plant can be used to season a variety of foods.  I planted these near the roses to attempt to scare off some of the insects that might nibble the roses.  So far, the roses are being nibbled anyway!

Siberian iris and honeysuckle vine.

Egyptian Walking Onions / Allium x proliferum -  This onion "walks" by making bulbs at the end of its stalks, above the ground.  The bulbs become too heavy for the stalk, and cause the stalk to tip to the ground.  The bulbs then grow in the dirt where they fall.  This way, they "walk" across the garden, one step at a time, each summer.  The bulbs above and below ground can both be eaten.  They taste like scallions to me.

Honeysuckle Vine / Lonicera sempervirens - I am growing this down the sea wall by training it around some chicken wire. I am growing it primarily for the lovely bright-pink flowers and the sweet, sweet smell.

Stinging Nettles / Urtica Dioica - I know, I know it's a weed... but a useful one!  It can be soaked in water to make fertilizer for tomatoes.  When you cook it, the sting vanishes and it can be eaten. It is actually fairly high in protein. It is also host for red admiral butterfly larva.

Joe Pye Weed / Eutrochium purpureum - This is NOT edible. I grew it to make the beneficial insects happy and also to provide a screen at the end of the garden nearest to the property line.  It grows into a very tall plant with a purple umbel for the flower. It blooms around mid to late August.

Chamomile

Chamomile / Matricaria recutita -  This plant makes cheerful little white daises with yellow centers.  the daisies smell a bit like apple and can be dried to make the ever-so-soothing chamomile tea. ZZZzzzz.... /happy sighs/

Pincushion Flower / Scabosia -  This is not edible.  I planted it because it makes cute purple flowers nearly all summer long, and because the butterflies like it.

Salad burnet / Sanguisorba minor - The leaves of this herb are often used in salads (thus the name).  They have a light, almost sweet flavor.

Lemon Grass / Cymbopogon citratus -  I either have to grow this one as an annual or attempt to bring it indoors in the winter. It is a tropical plant that looks like grass but tastes like lemon. It is frequently used in Thai cooking.

Hyssop / Hyssopus officinalis - This makes narrow, feathery purple flowers. It tastes like a cross

Hyssop.

between sage, anise and mint.  The beneficial insects love it.  This is another one that I prefer to dry and use as tea, but it can also be used to season salads, soup and other foods. It tends to re-seed itself easily.

Lovage / Levisticum officinale -  This is another tall plant with a white umbel for a flower.  The leaves taste like celery and can be used as a flavor substitute for celery in things like salad and soup.

Winter Savory / Satureja montana - The leaves of this herb have a peppery flavor and can be used to flavor a variety of foods.  I hear that it also helps to decrease flatus (gas) when cooked with beans or Jerusalem artichokes.

Catnip / Nepeta cataria  -  This is the plant that makes the kittens crazy!  I grew it to dry and gift to my in-laws' kitty.  It can also be used to make tea.

Cilantro/ Coriander / Coriandrum sativum - This is an annual herb.  I use it to flavor a variety of Mexican and Thai dishes. It often bolts on me early. Luckily the seeds can also be used as a flavoring.

Nasturtiums and a water bath for butterflies.

Nasturtiums / Tropaeloum majus - These are annual flowers.  The flower petals can be eaten.  They don't taste like much, but they can improve the presentation of any dish with their bright colors.  They also can act as a trap for aphids.  Aphids love to nibble nasturtiums and prefer them to many vegetables. When the aphids appear, you simply allow them to swarm the nasturtium and then douse them (plant and all) in a bucket of soapy water.  Sure you end up killing the nasturtium, but think of all the tomatoes you may be rescuing!

Horehound / Marrubium vulgare - The leaves of these have an interesting flavor.  It is used to flavor horehound candy.  Ever tried it? No?  Get ye to Cracker Barrel! Either there, or the Country Store/Frontier Town in Romeo, Michigan! They sell the candy there!

Dill, fennel, California poppy and hardy kiwi.

Hardy Kiwi / Actinidia arguta - I am training this vine down the sea wall.  Hopefully, once it is
established, it will produce small, non-fuzzy, edible, kiwis.  Usually, a male and female vine are both required. However, the one I purchased is grafted with both male and female branches.  I hope that it will do well. I have never grown this before.

Dill / Anethum graveolens - This is my husband's favorite herb.  It can be used to flavor a variety of foods including pickles, fish and others.  My husband mixes it into his salmon dip. YUUUUUM!

California Poppies.

Fennel / Foeniculum vulgare - The leaves of this plant taste like anise. It also makes a bulb that can be sliced thin and cooked into a variety of dishes.  It is host plant to the swallow tail butterfly.  It is very tall and makes yellow umbel flowers.  It looks and smells wonderful when waving in the breeze!

California Poppies / Eschscholzia Californica - I planted this mostly for looks and to make the bees happy, but the seeds can also be eaten.

Sweet Majoram / Origanum majorana - This herb is commonly mixed with orgeano, basil, and thyme to make Italian spice mix.  It is great for flavoring a variety of dishes. It's flavor is difficult to describe... you should just try tasting it sometime!

Chocolate Cosmos.

Stokes aster / Stokesia laevis - This is NOT edible. I grew it because it provides beautiful purple-blue daisies in late summer to early fall.  The bees adore this plant!


Chocolate cosmos / Cosmos atrosanguineus - I grew these because they smell like chocolate. 'Nough said.  (They are annuals and NOT edible!)

Salsify / Scorzonera - The young leaf shoots, flower petals and root of this plant can all be eaten. The root has a sweet flavor when cooked.  The leaves can be used as a spinach substitute. The flower buds can be added to salad.

Good King Henry / Chenopodium bonus-henricus - The young leaves can be used in salad.  They are bitter and high in iron. The flowering shoots can also be peeled and be used as an asparagus substitute.

Thyme & Lemon Thyme/ thymus vulgaris &Thymus serpyllum citriodora - This herb is great in cooking! It also makes lovely, small, purple bee-friendly flowers.

Milkweed

Oregano / Origanum vulgare - This herb is great in Italian cooking.  I will be using it in the future to make and can spaghetti sauce - yum!

French Tarragon / Artemesia dracunculus - The leaves of this herb are often used in French cooking.  They taste great with poultry, sauces or eggs.

Sage / Salvia officinalis - The leaves of this herb are also great with poultry.  It is the primary herb that I use when making turkey stuffing for Thanksgiving. It also makes purple flowers in the spring
and can grow into a small, woody bush.

Milkweed / Asclepias syriaca - The young shoots of this plant are edible, but I grow it for the butterflies.  It is host plant to monarch butterfly larva. It also makes a beautiful ball shaped flower.

I Am Growing the Following in Pots in the Herb Garden:

Tophat Blueberry / Vaccinium 'top hat' -  I love blueberries!  I am growing this in a pot because it is easier to control the acidity of the soil this way. Blueberries prefer a soil pH of 5.5-6.5.  My ground soil is mostly alkaline (pH 7.8), so filling a pot with more acidic soil  and peat was the only way that I could grow this plant.

The potted herbs.

Spearmint / Mentha spicata- I am growing this a pot because if I don't it will attempt to take over the world!  At the same time, I love this herb.  It is great in desserts, in mojitos and even in spaghetti sauce.

Rosemary / Rosmarinus officinalis - This is a tender perennial. I will have to bring it indoors during the winter if I want to keep it for next year.  Thus, it is in a pot.  It is a great flavoring for meat, bread and many other dishes.

Lemon Verbena / Aloysia triphylla - This is another tender perennial that I will need to bring indoors in the winter. The leaves taste and smell like sweet lemon. It is great in fruit salad or as tea.

Pineapple Mint / Mentha suavolens - This is another mint that is great in mixed drinks and fruit salad. Only this time it tastes and smells a bit like pineapple!

What's Growing in the Pie Plot:

Hidcote Lavender /  Lavandula angustifolia - I lined the walkway with this. I am hoping that when it
grows, I will brush against it as I walk by and be able to smell it as I go. I do occasionally use lavender flowers in cooking, but I mostly like it for its scent. It makes great sachets and potpourri. I think that I will need to protect this plant in the winter as I do with the roses since the garden is on the North side of the yard.  This lavender is hardy to zone 5, but this garden's exposure can cause it to seem like zone 3-4 in the winter at times. 

Potted herbs, blueberry pot, metal duck, weather vane, and pie plot.

Strawberries /  Fragaria - I have both ever-bearing and June bearing strawberries planted. I LOVE strawberries: in shortcake, in pie, raw.... SUPER YUM!

Rhubarb / Rheum rhabarbarum 'Victoria' - I grow these sour stems for the purpose of making strawberry-rhubarb pie and jam. I love it!

Borage / Borago officinalis - This is an annual. It makes purple-blue, star shaped flowers that are edible and taste a bit like cucumber. It is also supposed to be a good companion plant for strawberries. It is said to help deter pests from the strawberries and to attract predatory beneficial insects such as wasps.

Asparagus / Asparagus officinalis - The stems of this plant are harvested and eaten in early spring. It will take a couple of years before I can harvest what I planted, but it will be worth it!

Strawberries, lovage and rhubarb with soaker hose.

Elderberry / Sambucus canadensis 'Johns'  - Both the berries and flowers of this plant can be made in to wine.  The berries can also be made in to jam.  This is a native plant with beautiful white, lacy flowers.  It will take several years before my little elderberry bush is large enough to produce, but it will also be worth the wait. 

As you can see from the pictures, I have only recently planted this garden area.  I plan on taking
photos next year as well, when *hopefully* the plants will have grown in more.  The garden should hit full stride by summer 2017.  You gardeners know the saying, "The first year the garden sleeps, the second it creeps, the third it leaps!"  I am hopeful that the plantings will survive long enough to leap!

Keep reading the blog for further updates.  Please consider sharing the web address with your garden-loving friends.  :)